The Five O'Clock Follies

A few words on Saigon...The Caravelle Hotel where all the correspondents hung out writing stories to be sent back to The New York Times, The Guardian, Le Monde etc., The Rex where the Five O'Clock Follies took place, seedy Tu Do street with all the go-go bars and where long term press corps players took up residence, the American consulate and operation Frequent Wind, all of this is long gone. The Rex is now a five star hotel, the rooftop bar at the Caravelle is still there with great views but they have to be taken in sipping $7 small beers (well or lychee mojitos like I did) . Tu Do street is now Don Khoi street and lined with chic boutiques and restaurants. Old colonial buildings are being torn down to give way for modern skyscrapers. Saigon will be like Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong in 10-15 years. I would have loved to see this city in the 60's. Now despite what could be read as cynicism I really really liked Saigon, there is a great sense of history and parts are very beautiful in a very French way. I will go back, the noise pollution is something to get used to though.

Highway One

Thought I would write more when I came to Vietnam but I am always very tired now. Travelling is taking its toll on me. Yesterday I went on the worst journey of my life. We took the overnighter from Nha Trang to Hoi An and we had by far the worst seats/beds on the bus. The lower beds at the back so we where literally sleeping 5 people in a coffin. Up Highway One which is NOT in a good state. It was bumpy, hot and there was no air in our coffin. It was a nightmare!! Arrived in Hoi An at 7 in the morning feeling like a zombie, couldn't check in to our hotel so went and had breakfast at Mr Kim's after walking through the morning market. We could finally check in at 11, had some sleep but felt really sick the rest of the day. It's a beautiful little place this town, old Chinese merchants houses and assembly halls from the good old days some 600 years ago. It was also untouched from American bombs. It feels a bit like a museum with souvenir shops and so on but there's a live community here still which is nice. Will be here one more day and we really want to try and go to My Lai, but it doesn't seem possible. Up Highway One to Hue after this.

It's ok

Went up to Bokor Hill, was expecting a three hour trek through the jungle up the mountains but luckily we where at the last minute able to go by car ( Bokor Hill closes to the public now and again). We had booked a tour and of course the tour vehicle turned out to be a beaten up old Honda with a guy up front who was driving like he was chased by the Khmer Rouge and our guide an old soldier. Sadly Bokor Hill which is a Natural park has been sold to the Chinese. Only in Cambodia! ...and anyway they are going to build a massive hotel complex up there that will cater to the Chinese and anyone who will join them and their gambling urge. They are also fixing the road up there and this is the road we went up past bomb blast and deep holes, through water and past Khmer construction workers. We finally reached the top of the mountain and was greeted by surreal, eerie, haunting, breathtaking views of the surrounding country side and old colonial ruins, a hotel, church, post office and casino that where almost completely cloud hidden. It was even better than I had expected. We had lunch later on in an old ranger station and the old soldier was telling us how his family where killed by the Khmer Rouge and he was left in the jungle alone for a year and a half. He later joined the Vietnamese army and after 12 years left to work for the UN to clear mines all over Cambodia. His wife got ill with diabetes so he had to leave his job with the UN because he was travelling so much and then became a tour guide for Bokor Hill (only soldiers or soldier friendly men where allowed up there as guides). He said money is no good now, I earn very little but it's ok...It's ok. Harrowing Stories.